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Author Topic: Krown or Rust Module  (Read 13769 times)
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CanadianRacingOnline
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« on: July 21, 2009, 10:49:08 PM »

OK I just got a new Car and I also got my wife a new car in Feb 09 and here's has a Diamond-Kote Rust Module and I'm not sure to get this for my new car or just go to krown and get my car sprayed?

Anyone one have a insight to this as I don't have a clue and I want to protect my investment from rust.

I heard some places use this oil stuff and it messes up under neather your car but Krown is different as it puts a protective coating.

Rust Module is 450.00 Life Time warranty and Krown is 119.00 a year.

the Diamond_Kote is not like the ones they sell at Canadian Tire. It has two metal plates and that is where the rust goes they say.

Sorta a mixed bag of which is better on the net. Maybe someone here can shed some light on this.

I know it has nothing to do with racing but let pretend I said my race car need rust proofing.  Wink


Evan
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« on: July 21, 2009, 10:49:08 PM »

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ernie
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« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2009, 05:03:54 PM »

Evan I have experience with both so I will try and give you some info here.

Oil Spray
I had my pickup truck oiled every year for about 10 years since it was new. Everything seemed to be good until I started having to repair stuff. What a mess. I used to drive a lot of dirt roads and what happened was the dirt would layer up with the oil. The next year you get sprayed the oil can't penetrate the previous layer so it keeps building up year after year. Moisture gets trapped between the layers and the metal and rusts underneath without you noticing it until it is too late. Not so much body panels as the dirt usually doesn't get in there but all the frame and body attachment items are what get layered and rust. I eventually had to jack up my truck and go at it with a pressure washer for about 4 hours.

Bottom line on oil spray is if you don't do too much backroad driving you should be ok. No drip is the way to go. Still before you get a reapplication you should go through a car wash that has the underbody spray.

Electronic Rust control
The theory of this is a long known process used in the water and waste water industry of using sacrificial electrodes. There are two kinds. Passive and active.
Passive uses a buried electrode which is attached to a watermain or tank and its molecules replace the molecules lost by a rusting watermain or tank. When something rusts a small electric current is created and rust is created as certain charged molecules dissapate.
Active impresses a current flow in the opposite direction through the sacrificial electrodes to prevent your vehicle body panels from losing their molecules.
My neighbour had an early version of this on his pickup years ago. It was used for fuel tank transporting and had small dents and scratches all over it. I never saw any rust on it. My camper van has an auxillary battery on board that has a common ground with the starting battery that I keep a trickle charger on it when it is parked. It is an 88 Dodge and the only place it has rust is where the body panels and frame attachments are somewhat insulated from the rest of the vehicle and it doesn't amount to much on a 20 year old van. How many old Doge vans can you find with virtually no rust on them??? Chargers work on the same principal of reversing the flow of electrons to re-energize the battery plates so this is kind of the same. My wife's car (2004 Impalla) has the unit you are consisdering or a similar one. It has two sacrificial electrodes attached to the front fenders. She hit a raised curb about two months ago (GRRRRRRR Angry) and scratced both passenger doors near the rocker panel. As we all know we have had almost as much rain in Ontario as Noah faced but their is not a speck of rust showing yet.
The better units have sacrificial electrodes installed on all four corners of the vehical but as long as you have a good attachment point and the transmitter is working properly then the two point attachment should be sufficient for most cars. If you see your electrodes pitting away you know you have a problem that needs to be addressed somewhere on your car.

Bottom line for me is I am going with the rust modules, use a good quality car wash a few times a year and buy the spray cans from Crown or Oil Guard for known trouble spots. Oil is messy. Especially if you need to work on your car.
« Last Edit: July 22, 2009, 05:18:36 PM by ernie » Logged
ernie
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« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2009, 05:39:32 PM »

Or Google 'Cathodic Protection'

The Krown application, as you can tell by my total avoidence of the subject, I know squat about Undecided
« Last Edit: July 22, 2009, 07:41:30 PM by ernie » Logged
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« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2009, 05:39:32 PM »

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« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2009, 07:54:58 PM »

 I went with the rust module when I bought my new car. I don't have to worry about getting my car sprayed. The module was a one time cost and I can have it transferred to a different car if and when I buy another one.  I have never had any of my other vehicles sprayed (but they were all bought used) but I figured a spray or undercoating is only temporary protection anyway and is only as good as the installation and rust not forming between applications. Just my opinion.
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« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2009, 08:12:18 PM »

Thanks for the replies. I will wait for a few more. I like the rust module Idea as it is a one time thing and you can was under your car with them spray car washes.

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« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2009, 09:19:08 PM »

working at a new car dealer we USED to allways undercoat cars with syntec but in the last couple of years we have been useing the rust modules and had a lot less come backs for rust and and if you have the module inspected every year(most times coverd by the installing dealer) you should have no problems, that being said a good under coating would not likely hurt due to the fact that most of the under body is insulated from the actual body panels by a rubber mount.
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« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2009, 11:38:23 PM »

Go and research the moduale as much as possible. I have heard differing opinions on it. Some good and some bad. It all depends on how long you plan on keeping the vehicle. Personnaly I have used Krown on all my vehicles for the last 20 years. Only one I had a problem with is my 2000 f150 which I bought new and have had Krown do since then. This past fall when I took it in to be done I showed them some rust coming out in the quarter panels. I had it repaired just 2 weeks ago and Krown paid for the repairs without any hassle at all. That meant alot to me. And no, I am not a Krown distributor. Just the fact that they stood behind their warranty and had my truck repaired with no questions asked meant alot to me. I will continue to us their product faithfully. Just my experiance. 
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« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2009, 03:29:27 PM »

 The modules should protect more than just the undercarriage. Depending on the mounting position (mine is factory/dealership installed under the hood), the charge should carry through to more steel components and harder to reach areas. I chose the module mainly because I wasn't ever having any of my vehicles sprayed and didn't think that I would get into the routine of doing so. I don't have a negative opinion of spray protection, the module was just a matter of convenience for me.
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« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2009, 10:47:52 AM »

its kinda long but a good read about the testing between the two
http://www.krown.com/faqs/COMPARATIVE%20TESTING%20OF%20ELECTRONIC2.pdf
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« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2009, 04:16:27 PM »

 I can't be bothered to read through all the article, but don't doubt that Krown has a quality product. Having said that, I wouldn't expect them to find that there product/process was inferior to any other. It could very well be that the Krown product is better than my module, I don't know. For me it was just convenience.
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