BBSS vs. BSSB

[rainman]

Was reading an article on circle tracks website lately exploring the differences just thought I'd see what the locals thought with regards to delaware speedway the article gave pros and cons of both what I found really interesting was the numbers which sounded kinda crazy to me 980 and 1130 for front springs with 1 1/8 medium bar 175 and 200 in the rear the article seemed to lean towards this due to the increase in consistency the current trend seems to be to run 500s up front with 1 3/8 heavy bar up front with around 225 and 275 out back obviously delaware is a fairly rough track and a lot of people say its to absorb the bumps but I just thought I'd put it out there and see what people have tried what they liked what they hated and why
Maybe give the new guys a starting point or at least help everyone find what they aren't seeing or what questions they should be asking of their setup
I find the reasons we hated something are often more enlightening than just following trends or what the leaders are running every setup IS different so who hated what and WHY maybe my problem is your solution

[notingtolose]

Bbss is not designed for trucks I'll tell ya that much.we tryed it last yr and we were slower then with it then we were with a conventional setup (bssb)

[streetstocker33]

Personal preference I think, I like on the softer side in the front, but I don't 225 and 275 in the back though either when I'm working on the stock based stuff.

[LAKER77]

On our original nova which got destroyed last year we had a 700rf, 650lf, 1 1/8 bar, 175rr and 150lr. Rears were dirt springs. This seemed to work pretty well for us.

[Dougy109]

On our original nova which got destroyed last year we had a 700rf, 650lf, 1 1/8 bar, 175rr and 150lr. Rears were dirt springs. This seemed to work pretty well for us.

Being turn3 and4 were rough riding, dirt setup probably worked well I kid I kid!!

[jrdriver]

theres ore to it than throwing in a big bar and taking out springs rate. shocks are number 1 when it comes to this setup you need something that will tie you down though the corner but let the front come up on the straight to get the rear weight for grip down the straight away.


theres also the fact that this setup could bring you to coil bind and its a whole different setup once  your to coil bind.  running bbss will also change the front geo of the car dynamically. you know all the rf camber you guys run there you dont need it because with the front springs so soft your going to gain a ton of it.


my self i would run coil bind or bump stops if rules alow stops get the front end of the car as soft as i can to get maxum wheel load for the most grip to turn without fighting the car/truck

im not sure how many of you use or have seen a pull down rig in action its quite interesting to see that a 2700 lm under load weighs over 4000lbs though the corners


what ever you try to do dont give up on it right away it will take time to get it right  unless the thing cant drive i would stick one thing out untill you feel like you tryed every thing you can to make it better.



i wouldent be afraid to go 450 fronts big bar  150lr 300rr   get in with someone with a good shock dyno and work on good package.   if you get to coil bind you really dont need a bar  maybe the last 1/4 inch befor bind to plant the lf  into the track


thats just the tip of the iceburg when it comes to thes setups do as much home work as you can

[jrdriver]

looking at the rules for the shocks you can get stock type shocks that meet the rules and would work for the bbss setup. no bumb stops in the trucks or supers but you could run coil bind witch is about the same just not as forgiving over the bumps and with the new work going on at the track you could make it work with some testing.

i for one would try it out im not afraid to try new things 

[jrdriver]

Shock absorbers (one per wheel), must be sealed steel with stock-type fixed mounts, and no
altering of shock and/or painting allowed. $80.00 maximum per shock. Shocks will have fixed ends
and be non-rebuildable
10. No rod end or ball mounts


it says nothing about not allowed to run an aftermarket shock. its says it has to have stock type mounts so i would get my self a set of bilstines (witch btw are a oem brand) and there also within the price range of the rule.   i dont run there weekly but i would take into consideration that if you can run something do it lol.

[jrdriver]

im not saying to do it i said i wouldn't be afraid top try  it could be done with the 80 dollor shocks you have to do some homework is all

[JimmyThunder]

Call pro shocks, tell them what you want. they will build for you. welded body(cant take apart), what ever valving you want. No home work to do just pay the bill

[rainman]

Now that's some good input.  I think the best advice which is kinda what I was getting at is to try something fully to actually understand where its going and what its actual potential is. You seldomly get any setup perfect on the first try that's why I also suggested posting what didn't work. A lot of times I find that info is more helpful than what does cause every car and every setup is different. Its tough to compare any two because of other variables something as simple as where lead is in order to get the same weights can change important aspects such as weight transfer and center of gravity and as those move everything changes. Its funny I never understand why people are so secretive about basic setup info because without the whole story which everybody knows includes hundreds of numbers it doesn't work. As far as the argument building up here the only thing I can say for sure is never say that something can't work only that I haven't figured out how it can work yet!

[25_JLM_13hp]

I don't know anything about shocks, but I know that I like reading sentences with periods.

[rainman]

Sorry about that apparently I forgot the impotance of the relation between jacking forces and the angle of my poor grammar.

.
There's an extra for the next time I forget one.


Just kidding I'll fix it. It was late.