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Posted by: Dougy109« on: December 04, 2009, 01:58:25 PM »I gotta say the stick shift is best for me. No heat issues, better engine braking, less reciprocating weight, and the list goes on. 'Glides are fun, but costly to get in there to do what you want em to. When I losty brakes at lap 4, I was glad I had an engine that could handle the geardown (slipping the clutch a little) to compensate for the lost stopping power.
Posted by: JAMR« on: December 03, 2009, 09:40:52 PM »We went thought that Glide every winter and freshened up what needed it. It lasted 3 seasons if memory serves me correctly. Keeping good clean fluid in it can be a little pricey. Cool is key.
Posted by: jworacing« on: December 03, 2009, 12:09:42 PM »TCI makes a bunch of stuff, but I still think the lowest cost has got to be the three speed manual
 Posted by: JAMR« on: December 02, 2009, 11:06:54 PM »Oh yeah that setup was old school for sure. But that car would jump up out of the corners like crazy! As far as loading it on the trailer, that's what the winch on the trailer was for.
 Posted by: jworacing« on: December 01, 2009, 07:15:46 AM »The ball valve set up is old time hockey, they have come up with a new system that uses a standard clutch master cylinder and slave to acuate it. They also have an internal setup that you shift the trany in out and supposedly it won't stall and it reportedly allows you to trailer the car?
Posted by: eightball« on: December 01, 2009, 04:23:07 AM »Posted by: smokinjoe00« on: November 30, 2009, 10:01:08 PM »i would never think of running something like that.....
Posted by: larue« on: November 30, 2009, 09:25:05 PM »SmokingJoe,delaware is allowed direct drive coupler's.Any good techman would spot that,a mile away!!!
 Posted by: JAMR« on: November 30, 2009, 08:57:54 PM »Our Glide was a kit from the states, can't remember the company, 1978 was along time ago, it did have some different clutch discs and some mods to the valve body and there was also a replacement cover for the accumulator that had a 3/4" ID fitting in it that was plumbed to a 1/4 turn ball valve and back into the pan with braided stainless. Open the valve and the clutches don't develop pressure, put it in gear and close the valve (as quickly as you dare) and away we go. Hook the valve to a clutch pedal with some linkage and a big ass return spring or whatever works for you. Now I may not have all the details dead on but you get the idea. Like I said, 1978.
Posted by: Dougy109« on: November 30, 2009, 12:03:28 PM »JWO check ur PMs
 Posted by: jworacing« on: November 28, 2009, 08:53:10 PM »theres a cuople of ways of doing it, you can have clutch pedal or an iternal valve type. Do'nt forget it's direct drive without a torque converter. It doesn't slip anymore. I think when I checked into it it was going to cost arond 600 dollars to convert a glide
Posted by: smokinjoe00« on: November 28, 2009, 01:12:00 PM »how much work to get the glide to work with the coupler? do u just buy the kit?
Posted by: jworacing« on: November 28, 2009, 09:23:46 AM »That would be correct but the oil is going over a relief valve to maintain the pressure to keep the clutch disk compressed in high or the band squeezing for low. The rest of the oil has to go somewhere. That 's where the inefficiency come in all that oil flowing to do a little job. The flow thrue the valve and the pump leakage is where the heat comes from. If the heat comes from anywhere else you'll soon find out.
As far as the three speed there are ways to improve it but that would not be kosher. They are dead simple and cheap and again I feel more reliable. You do have to some work to get the Glide to work with the coupler. As far as powering steering the system is open center so its not building pressure unless you turn the wheel and how much power will that rob? Every body has thier preference so I guess it boils down to what you like and more importantly what the driver likes. The driver is the biggest maker or loser of time, keep him comfortable and confident in his ride, Posted by: larue« on: November 27, 2009, 09:25:21 PM »So,this would be the same as running power steering then?The pump pressure in a powerglide is much lower then the power steering pumps,so here's the debate.....is it worth all that rotating weight on the end of your crankshaft,4lb coupler compared to 28lbs of flywheel and clutch?
 ?  :oThe internal rotating weight of a powerglide is also less then a saginaw 3 speed Posted by: jworacing« on: November 27, 2009, 05:24:05 PM »Well an automatic is a hydraulicly actuated transmission which requires a pump to make it operate. The pump is what engages the gear you want. Since the oil only has to shift the transmission and lubricate it you have a pump spining say 6000 rpm. The pump has internal leakage and so does all the valves, that leakage is a loss of hp beacuse it is converted to heat energy. I've hear numbers of around 15-20 hp. They are not nearly as bullet proof as we'd like to believe and they do require freshening up every now and again. I guess it's a matter of preference, I just happen to prefer the good old 3 speed standard
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